Tools

The range of tools, used by the Bricklayer, changed very little through the last century and has remained so to this day. The limited changes that have occurred are in the design of some of the traditional tools and, where appropriate, the introduction of new materials in their manufacture; the aim of these developments has been to make the tools easier and safer to use.

There are now, of course, many powered tools available to the Bricklayer but are also used by many other trades, for cutting out and grinding, so it seemed inappropriate to include them.

However, some of the tools listed are no longer in use but have been included for historical reference.

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Boat Level:

A short wooden or aluminium spirit level, about 225mm long, that has a boat like appearance and may be fitted with horizontal and vertical bubbles. Used to level over short distances or in conjunction with a longer straight-edge.

Bolster:

Also known as a Boaster. It is a thin flat steel chisel, 100mm wide, and used with a Lump Hammer for the accurate cutting of all types of bricks.

Boning Rods:

The rods, about 1.25m long, are in sets of three. Used visually to determine the height of an intermediate point between two datum points that may be level or on a gradient. The rods made to a suitable and equal length each have a top tee bar; the middle rod is sighted, between two held on datum points, to fix the height of the required point.

Brick Hammer:

The hammer is balanced about its handle with a short curved chisel blade on one side with a square faced hammer on the other. The heavy chisel blade is used for trimming cut bricks, which is its main use, and the hammer head is used as a general purpose tool.

Brick Trowel:

This trowel, used for all types of work, needs to be of first quality and chosen to suit individual requirements, in balance and weight, so that bricks can be correctly laid at an economic rate. Now declining in use the earlier trowels, still available, are made for right or left handed use; trowel lengths are from 225mm to 350mm with variations in the inclination (the lift) of the handle. One side of the blade is straight, for cutting away surplus mortar, while the other has a slight curve at the shoulder for light brick trimming. Traditional trowels are being replaced by increased use of broad bladed trowels that have soft grip handles.

Closer Gauge:

See Bonding. The construction of some bonds, usually in solid walls, requires a 56mm closer in alternate courses. To ensure accuracy in repetitive cutting, and to save time, a wooden gauge is made to mark bricks squarely at the right closer length for cutting.

Cold Chisel:

Made of highly tempered steel they can be round or octagonal in section and are drawn out to a flat chisel edge or a point. They vary in shape and size, according to the type of work, and used with a Lump Hammer for cutting out brickwork and concrete.

Comb Hammer:

Similar to a Brick Hammer but the chisel blade is replaced by a slotted end to receive a dispensable toothed blade or chisel blade. The toothed comb is used to fine trim cut bricks.

Corner Blocks:

Used in pairs they are traditionally made in wood but now manufactured in plastic. Formed in an L shape they are slotted to take, and secure, the Brick Line. Line tension holds them in place on the two external corners of a wall as an alternative to line pins; useful when working from corners in set mortar.

Float:

Also a plasterer's tool. Made from wood, or plastic, with a grip that holds a thin flat base approx. 100mm x 250mm. Used to shape and smooth a cement/sand rendering, e.g. chimney flaunching, or screeds for floor tiles.

Frenchman:

Made, by the craftsman, usually from an old table knife. The end of the knife blade is cut to form two sloping shoulders but leaving a parallel 4mm tang approx. 8mm long which is turned at 90 deg. Used, when Weather Pointing, with a bevelled straight-edge fitted with 10mm stops to hold it from the wall face; the tool is used to cleanly cut surplus mortar from bed and cross joints and the tang removes this from the wall face.

Gauge Rod:

Used to control the level of each course of a wall as the corners are built. Made from 50mm x 25mm wooden batten and long enough to reach one storey high of the building; the top of each course is marked, with saw kerfs, to the specified brickwork gauge. Used from a level datum set at external, and internal, corners the rod controls both the vertical rise of the work and its level from corner to corner. The levels of window and door heads can be included.

Gun:

Made from two short lengths of 50 x 25 batten that is half jointed to form an obtuse angle (gun like appearance). Used to set out, and control, the splayed cutting angle of arch Skew Backs and Tumbling-In (see Decorative Work).

Hawk:

Made of wood or metal. A square flat plate with a round handle on the underside and held in one hand. Usually about 200mm x 200mm (plasterers' hawks are larger) and used to hold small amounts of mortar when pointing or making good.

Jointing Iron:

Used for the specialised process of Tuck Pointing (see Decorative Work). The heavy flat blade, set in a trowel like handle, is made as a bed jointer (200mm long) and a cross-jointer (75mm long) with a thickness of 8mm. The edge of the blade may be flat; concave; convex, or with a recessed V in order to produce a variety of joints.

Line and Pins:

The line is used, between two corners, to control the gauge and face alignment of each course as the wall is built. The hardened steel pins which are about 175mm long are formed in two parts. A 75mm shank is made with a large head, to hold the wound line, and joins a 100mm thin blade for inserting into cross-joints. Line is wound clockwise on one pin and anti-clockwise on the other and fitted to the top face of the course.

Lump Hammer:

Also known as a Club Hammer it has a short, square section, head with a weight of 1kg; the edges of the steel head are chamfered and designed for use with a Bolster or a Cold Chisel.

Plugging Chisel:

A wide flat chisel blade, about 200mm long, with a parallel thickness of 5mm. The upper end of the chisel, for holding, has the usual octagonal section and the cutting end is splayed back at 30 deg. Used for cutting out bed and cross joints in existing brickwork.

Plumb Rule:

Now mainly replaced by the Spirit Level but still used when a high degree of accuracy is required. The 125mm x 25mm wooden rule can be up to 2.00m long; the lead, or brass, plumb bob is held centrally from the top of the rule and can move freely in an opening at the lower end. It is read against a gauge line down the centre of the rule. Also, made with one side vertical and one side inclined; this battering plumb rule, read in the normal way, is used when one wall face is inclined inwards, e.g. retaining walls and buttresses.

Pointing Trowel:

Shaped as a Brick Trowel but only 75mm to 125mm in length. Used in conjunction with a Hawk its main purpose is to finish bed and cross-joints on fair face brickwork; the smaller trowel, known as a dotter, is used to finish the cross-joints (see Decorative Work). Also, used in a general way for small items of work.